As we all know, African-American hair runs the gamut, it can be fine, straight, curly, frizzy or kinky. In my immediate family alone, hair textures differ greatly. None of us have the same "type" of hair. This article is presented with the idea that African American hair is different, and although products that work well for me, may not work well for you, the basic hair care techniques are the same. African American hair lends itself to all types of styling opportunities. And, let's face it, mah sistahs, we are very trendy when it comes to the ways we wear our hair. Here's a few tips for "caring" your 'do.

The Basics:

The Stuff Grandmomma Knew but Forgot to Tell You

1. Always BE GENTLE with your hair, particularly if it has been chemically treated.

a)       This includes coloring as well as relaxed hair or curly-permed hair. If you have had chemical treatments, then always treat your hair as though it is damaged, even if you don't have split ends.

2. Always use a wide toothed comb, even for styling

a)       Make sure the teeth of the comb are very smooth. Jagged edges on the teeth will "catch" and pull your hair out.

3. Invest is a good, natural boar bristle brush.

a)       Brushing the hair is to help distribute the natural oils from the scalp down the length of the hair. Use a softer brush and more patience when brushing your hair. My favorite brush Mason Pearman, however, Goody makes a decent, natural boar bristle brush as well.

4. Tie your hair up at night. This prevents your hair from "catching" on the pillow case and breaking off. This also keeps the natural hair oils in your hair and not in the pillowcase. Tying your hair up doesn't have to be grounds for divorce.

a)Buy some pretty, satin scarves to tie your hair up in. Never use cotton scarves. They will draw the moisture from your hair.

b)       Or, invest in some satin pillowcases. They don't have to be expensive ones, just a satiny type of material that will allow the hair to "glide" while you sleep.

5. Check all of your rollers, pins, clips and other styling aids for smooth edges.

a)       Just like with the comb, rough edges will "catch" on the hair and pull your hair out, 2 to 3 strands at a time.

b)       Avoid elastic bands that are not covered with a smooth, satiny type of material. All of those others (terrycloth covered, material covered, rubber) catch in the hair and will pull it out.

c)       Avoid rollers with "teeth". These sharp edges will pull your hair out. Velcro rollers are a "no-no" for the same reason. Use the smooth, magnetic rollers, but never sleep in them. Your hair will thank you.

       6.      Use less heat on your hair, especially if it is chemically treated or damaged.

a)       Styling heat is probably the biggest enemy of African American hair. Reduce the use of heated appliances as much as possible. If you must "bump your ends" then allow your hair to air dry instead of blow-drying it.

b)       Instead of heated appliances, try using wet sets once a week, then, wrap your hair at night. This will prolong your style and reduce the amount of heat used on the hair.

Shampooing and Conditioning

"Take Your Time, Do It Right"

1.            Use shampoos that have a low pH, somewhere between a 4 or a 5. Acidic shampoos temporarily close the cuticle of the hair (works like sucking on a lemon). If the pH of the shampoo is not located on the bottle, pH-testing papers are available at most drugstores and pharmacies for a nominal cost. Or, use neutralizing shampoos, the "post relaxer" type. These have a low pH because they are used to neutralize the alkaline effects of a relaxer.

2.            Use conditioners to detangle and temporarily smooth the hair cuticle. Don't leave a conditioner on longer that is suggested by the manufacturer's instruction. You don't get "more benefit" from leaving it on longer but you may break off more hair. Instant conditioners will help to detangle hair and temporarily coat the hair with protein. Leave on one to three minutes. These are better for natural hair. Deep conditioners are better for chemically treated hair. These usually stay on for 20-30 minutes. Use a heating cap, set on low or medium heat, to help the conditioner temporarily replace the keratin lost through hair damage.

3.            While shampooing and conditioning, try not to tangle the hair excessively, I have always found that washing my hair in sections helps to keep the tangles and the frustrations down.

4.            Be Patient. Clear all tangles and snarls with the fingers first, then, starting from the bottom, using your wide toothed comb, complete the detangling process. Using an oil lotion at this stage, while the hair is still damp will help keep the hair moisturized and help ease out the tangles.

5.            Rinse your hair twice as long as it took to wash it. Shampoo residue will dry your hair and break it off. Focus conditioning on the ends. They are the oldest part of the hair, and more prone to damage.

6.            Stay away from Balsam in conditioner. It leaves a clear film on the hair that is excessively drying to African American hair.

Styling

"Fried, Dyed, and Laid to the Side"

As I've said before, African Americans are very trendy and hairstyles change constantly depending on what's in vogue. Here is some basic information on African American styling aids.

Hair Dressings: There are quite a few different types of hairdressings ranging from the gel hairdressings to the heavier pomades. Essentially, hairdressings are lubricants that help the hair not to "catch" on itself or the comb/brush helping to become more "manageable." Most hairdressing will also add varying degrees of shine as well as "control".

Gel Hairdressing: Designed to add shine and help "control" the hair. Example: Let's Jam Power Shine

Cream Hairdressing: Designed to moisturize and add shine, however, they do not provide as much control as the gels. Example: Vitapointe,

Oil Lotions: Heavier weight than cream hairdressing. Add more "control" as well as shine and moisture. Example: Luster's Pink Oil Moisturizer

Pomades: Heavy-duty lubrication, shine and control. There are generally two types, oil based and the water-soluble type. Examples: Dax Hair Pomade (oil type) Ouidad's Clear Control (water-soluble type)

Other Hairdressing: This group includes many of the old standbys like VO5 and Ultra Sheen. These products are great for lubrication, in particular, the ends of the hair. However, too much will cause the hair to look "greasy".

Oil Sheen Sprays:Add extra shine to styled hair.Great for finishing. Examples:Motions Oil Sheen Spray

Some Final Notes

African American hair is extremely versatile and this article does not by any means go over every aspect of African American hair care. However, here are some final tips to keep in mind.

1.        Stay away from alcohol based products; look for either Alcohol or SD Alcohol on the label. Then leave it on the shelf. Alcohol is extremely drying to African American hair.

2.        Find a good stylist, someone you can trust. Finding a good stylist is an article in itself, so, here are some quick tips:

·         Ask about their most recent training: a good stylist invests in continuing education

·         If they downgrade your last stylist, leave the premises: This shows poor professionalism. You will pay for this later with bad sets and late appointments.

·         Check the products they are using, a good hairstylist will invest in good quality products to use on your hair.

·         Remember it's your hair. You must keep in control of the situation. Be courteous, but firm. Don't allow a stylist to perform a service you didn't ask for or tell you that a service "can't be done" on your type of hair. Don't be afraid to get a second opinion.

3.        Never rush when doing your hair. Always be patient and GENTLE. If you don't have the time to wash your hair and properly, condition, detangle and style it, don't do it. >Wait until you do have the time.

4.        Never relax and color your own hair, have a professional do it. Yes, I know we have all done this, but we shouldn't. Here's why. For the most part, home relaxer kits contain a lot of calcium, (go ahead and check, I'll wait) which will build up on the hair and make it less manageable. So, at worst, go to a Beauty Supply store and buy professional products and have someone else perform these services. At best, go to your stylist and have them done professionally. You want to keep your hair on your head, not in your hands.